Mayne Versteegen
THE FIRST TIME I SURFED
I started walking barefoot on the cold relaxing sand to go surfing for the first time. As the sun was beaming down on my back I felt butterflies in my stomach as we got closer and closer the nervousness and the excitement kept growing and growing. I still tasted the lingering flavor of the pinacolata I had earlier. I saw the waves crashing beside me as we kept walking. I heard the noise of the joyful kids splashing in the rushing water. I smelt the fresh salty sea.
I laid my surfboard down on the soft sand as the instructors were telling us what to do I laid down on the waxy board the instructors said up as I stood up on the board they said of the boards and we were starting to walk to the water. As the cold water touched my feet a shiver went up my spine. We gradually went deeper and deeper. The water was up to my waste a huge clear blue wave splashed onto my head. I tasted the bitter salty water. I was shoulder high and my instructor said on so I sat on the board we went a little deeper and he said get ready. I looked back and saw a huge wave starting to form.
I paddled and paddled I caught the wave and he yelled “UP” I stood up and took the stance they showed us how to do and I felt the cool wind in my face i tasted a little salt water splashing in my face I saw the beach coming closer and closer I heard the rushing water. The beach was coming closer and closer I felt a shiver go up my spine as I rushed to the shore. It felt like I was flying the wind rushing in my face the water rushing by me
I was so close to the shore then SPLASH I fell of the board. I felt the water consume my body I heard the splash of the water all around me I saw nothing… I tasted the salty water I smelt nothing… GASP I came up I looked around I saw my little cousin surfing and the thrill on her face as she zoomed in right past me for a split second I felt the thrill again too then I went bak out there and did it again and again felt the thrill and excitement over and over.
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That night I remembered the feeling that I was flying the amazingness of the water splashing into my face it was the best day ever.